While staying in Costa Rica with friends, I determined I had to go to Nicaragua. It was only a “few hours” (like 8) by bus from Sámara, but I just couldn’t help myself.
SJDS is grungy. It’s not a pristine place, which is exactly why I loved it. The beach was covered in debris. It didn’t look nice. The beachfront is lined with bars and restaurants, and small colorful colorful boats with San Juan del Sur painted on their sides. Most hostels do not have hot water and there are ample chickens.
I loved SJDS so much I went back with a friend less than 3 months after my first visit. We spent the week working, checking out the coffee shops, trekking through the flooded streets (rainy season), attempting to surf, and drinking Toña, of course. Here are some photos and brief commentary from my two visits.
Highlights of San Juan del Sur Aside from Surfing (Mostly Photos)
Most people go to SJDS to surf. Here are some other things I appreciated…
Hole in the Wall Restaurants with Excellent Food
Ok this is applicable many places I travel, but I had some excellent food in San Juan del Sur and especially at Comedor Mariyita and a small soda with a red gate next to the Pali supermarket (called Tortuga something).
A Massive Statue of Jesus, On Top of a Hill
The Jesus statue is a major highlight/sight of San Juan Del Sur. The first time I attempted to climb up via the “wooded path” (not the main road). It didn’t go great and I was nearly killed by a dog so I went up the road. The second time we tried again, and were able to find the more rustic path down. Then, it began downpouring and we got soaked. We wound up on a steep path (cliff) overlooking the ocean during high winds and rain. It was not passable and we had to turn back. The road was flooding. So, it was an adventure.
Sea Snakes (Not a Highlight)
While in SJDS I saw something on the beach which resembled a snake. “That cannot be a snake,” I told myself. “Snakes do not live in the ocean.” False. Turns out snakes DO live in the ocean, and in fact it was a snake. This was confirmed when I saw several more snakes during the next ten minutes while walking [barefoot] on the beach. Turns out, these snakes are only some of the most venomous in existence. Apparently, they cannot bite humans because their “mouths are too small.” I was told this by a 10-year-old child who knew a suspiciously-large amount about the snakes. Let’s just say I did not go swimming again.
An Abandoned Hotel Next to a Popular Surf Beach
In Playa Remanso, a popular surf spot, there is an awesome abandoned hotel right off the main beach. This was of more interest to me than surfing. Some of the rooms are even unlocked! You can see more photos here →
Wandering Around Fields with Goats
I decided I wanted to walk to one of the beaches adjacent to SJDS. It seemed like a great idea, as it was clearly accessible on the map. After walking some time alone, on the side of the dusty road, past some questionable people, I turned down a steep rocky/muddy road. Of course, this looked like a standard road on the map. I was committed at this point, so I continued even as fear mounted when a large dog on a chain barked murderously, and a large herd of goats started coming towards me from a field. I proceeded past wildlife dangers on the path, and before long arrived at a gate in the woods – which was padlocked and too high to climb. I never made it to the beach. I had better luck wandering through the neighborhoods up on the hills above SJDS in the mornings (left photo) – no wild animals nor locked gates in sight.
Sunset on the Harbor
In the evenings, people play volleyball on the sand next to the beach bars. The bars fill up, too. It really is beautiful, no matter where you watch it from. That is all.
