[Visited in February 2022]
I hadn’t been out of the country in almost 2 years (thanks, covid) and was immensely worried that travel – and the world as we knew it – would be different. On the plane to Guatemala, phrases like “You will never travel like before” and “It will be at least 2025 until things are normal” echoed in my head, reinforced by friends and the internet alike.
About 5 minutes after stepping off the plane in Guatemala, my fears were asuaged when, as I got in line to show my covid documentation, it was brushed aside, barely even glanced at, and I was ushered into the country. I sped around winding mountains in the night in a taxi (too late for the bus), and for once instead of abject fear I felt relief. It was all still here.
Over the next week my relief turned into pure joy as I took dozens of chicken buses, ate dirty street foods, and explored little towns on foot.
People, Still Eating Street Food
The food was good in Guatamala. Nothing super unique or outstanding, but after not eating street food for 2 years the excitement I felt for $1 meals was extreme. Vendors lined the streets by night, offering up various delights and an abnormal number of hot dogs. I tried it all. Burned my mouth on the sweet, hot corn soup (top right). Ingested cheese knowingly even though I’m allergic. I was so overjoyed I even ate meat again for the fisrst time in years.
Antigua: Touristy & Quaint (and Touristy)
I did not love Antigua. The town was beautiful, of course, but it was super touristy, its cobblestone streets littered with obnoxious backpackers [Oh, how I missed disliking you] posing in groups beneath the famous yellow arch. I stayed for two nights in an amazing hostel (the Somos Hostel – highly recommend), and spent the days exploring on foot.
The highlights included crumbling convents scattered around the city and the Mercado Central around the bus station. (Just don’t eat there though – you’ve been warned).
My favorite part was wandering above the city and through the neighborhoods built onto the hillside. I even saw a pinata vendor (!!) making his way down the steep, forested path with massive neon pinatas in tow.
Xela: My Favorite, Regular City
By far, my favorite part of the trip was visiting Xela. Technically called Quetzaltenango (but who the heck can pronounce that), it’s a big city that is world’s away from Antigua. Although there were no sights of particulair note, a few days wandering the authentic streets were great. What was not great was how cold it was in the mountains – close to 40 at night. Good thing I only brought clothing for hot summer days. The hostel I selected (1 of 2 in the city) was old — and open air. I quite nearly froze to death, the uneven doors on my room not closing all the way. The next day I purchased a new stylish (and likely counterfeit) jacket at the market. I mean, I had to do it.
It was easy to get local buses from Terminal Xela to all the mountain towns nearby. And this is just what I did each morning, making the 30-minute trek through the cold to the terminal. The bus station was a bit much – crowded (as they tend to be), full of people screaming incoherently, dirty fruits, and loud exhaust. Oh, how I missed this chaos.
Other city highlights included Mercado el Terminal (Standard wet market) the Market of Democracy (Very organized market with clothes and goods) and Parque Central and the street vendors there selling delicious foods.
San Andrés Xecul: Bright Churches & Loud Music
I took the Chicken Bus to the mountain village of San Andrés Xecul to see the “crazy church,” more formally called La Iglesia de San Andres de Xecul. The town was full, and I mean full, of churches beyond the main one.
You could climb the steep mountain about 20 minutes through the neighborhoods onto a trail, providing an astounding view. You could still hear the loud music blaring from the church up there, although it sounded a bit more like a nefarious carnival from the side of the mointain while hiking a deserted trail alone. To be clear, I was in fact convinced I would be murdered.
On my way down I glimpsed a cremation ceremony (blue building below), two boys fighting with sticks, and a cemetery guarded by stray dogs who were near death themselves.
San Francisco del Alto: The City Is a Market
As much as I loved San Andrés, I think I loved San Francisco even more. I arrived by Chicken Bus (what else), and was thrilled to discover I had come on the right day and the entire town was a market. The streets were thick with vendors, so congested by people and goods it was hard to even walk down some passes. I spent hours getting lost in the maze of haphazard tarps and gear.
Chichicastenango (ChiChi): Go for the Cemetery
ChiChi is he home to the “largest open air market in Central America,” if the superlatives are to be believed. A not-so-quick ride on the chicken bus, I was on the fence about going given the market was much more toursity than it used to be. I feared disappointment and regret about the 4+ hour round trip ride from Xela. However, at the last minute, I decided to go for it – and risk missing my shuttle to the airport that afternoon. I made the 30-mintue trek to the bus station yet again, found the correct bus, and waited an hour for it to take off. Once in ChiChi I was indeed disappointed. While the market was big, it felt nothing like expected (IE Otavalo).
I wandered thorugh the throngs of tourists fingering overpriced goods quickly, and walked down a side street where there was a small animal market. Finally, we were getting somewhere! Chickens were tied up in baskets, ladies gripping them, waiting in line to pay. There were no tourists back here, and I felt an unexpected gratitude for my [usually irritating] covid mask as it protected me from feathers and visible ‘bird germs’ flying thorugh the air.
I countinued downhill to the absolute highlight of the town – the Chichicastenango Cemetery. Every grave on the mountainside is painted a different bright or pastel color, and it almost looks like its own little world. The internet says the cemetery has a lot of Mayan tradition, and that each color celebrates the afterlife and indicates family roles enjoyed during life.
There is much more I could – and will – say on Guatamala. I loved it so much I am returning in June, and will provide the country update then.